WolfenDale’s in Sussex impresses start to finish
Milwaukee Journal Sentinel – Friday, July 5, 1996
Author: DENNIS GETTO
New restaurants seem to open every week these days. But really good places, like the new WolfenDale’s in Sussex , come along far less frequently.
Last April, Kurt Schuller, who formerly was general manager at Club Forest in Mequon, teamed up with Dale and Leslie Peterson and bought Findlay’s on Main, a Sussexrestaurant with a reputation for busy fish fries. Within two weeks, they had the restaurant up and running as WolfenDale’s. (The name is a combination of Schuller’s middle name, Wolfgang, and Peterson’s first name.)
Schuller is the restaurant ‘s chef; Dale Peterson, who also manages a local supermarket, helps out as host; Leslie Peterson tends bar and manages the front of the house.
The new owners did little to change the already charming appearance of the restaurant , which seats 60 people in two rooms. The building’s innate charm comes from its beamed ceilings and natural wood floors. Light lace window treatments add a touch of elegance, as do white tablecloths, blue napkins and small fresh floral arrangements.
That elegance, combined with a creative menu and good service, already has made the restaurant popular on weekends. After two recent dinners, I’m convinced that it could become one of Waukesha County’s best spots.
Some aspects of the restaurant ‘s menu resemble those at Club Forest. Most items are grilled, and steaks are featured prominently. Diners can choose two from a list of seven side dishes offered.
My first visit to the restaurant was with a friend who likes a good steak. He ordered WolfenDale’s New York strip ($17.95); I ordered a thick pork chop called a Pork Porterhouse ($13.95).
After golden, warm French bread and crunchy romaine salads brightened by tomatoes, red onions and homemade croutons, we were astounded by the mounds of meat that our waiter delivered.
The 12-ounce strip steak was large, well over an inch thick, tender, with the rich flavor that good grilling imparts. But it looked wimpy next to the pumped-up pork chop, which had been marinated in olive oil, juniper berries and gin. The combination gave the meat’s exterior a dark crust that contrasted nicely with its rich, natural flavor.
Fish and chicken caught our eyes on the second visit and neither dish disappointed.
Grouper ($16.95) had been simply grilled and covered with a mild puree of sweet peppers. Chicken Arthur ($13.95) was surprisingly rich – two breast sections with wings attached had been grilled, placed atop wonderful, warm mushroom couscous and covered with a rich brown garlic sauce.
That mushroom couscous is one of the seven side dishes offered. In two visits, we also sampled excellent angel hair pasta with garlic butter, a well-baked Idaho potato and garden salads.
Other details of meals at WolfenDale’s left lively memories. An appetizer of crab au gratin blended sweet snow crab with cream cheese, wine and herbs. Served warm with small slices of garlic toast, it was very good.
So was WolfenDale’s version of a Caesar salad, with lots of garlic croutons, creamy anchovy-laced dressing and freshly grated Parmesan cheese. And the French onion soup, which was offered without baked cheese as the soup of the day, was sweet and light, without the heaviness that’s common.
Desserts ($2.95 each) were simple but delicious, such as fresh strawberries beneath a light custard sauce. Chocolate mousse was light, milky and served chilled in a tall glass.
And it’s rare that I mention waiters, but Mark Semrow was one of the best I’ve seen. So much of table service is warmth and at both meals, he made us feel as if we were guests in his living room.
On the second visit to WolfenDale’s, my dining companion and I were seated beside the restaurant ‘s huge stone fireplace. It wasn’t needed on a warm summer evening, but I could imagine how wonderfully it would warm the room on a cold winter evening.
I can’t wait to go back to find out.
Try salad, mousse just like Wolfendale’s
Milwaukee Journal Sentinel – Wednesday, January 27, 1999
Bonnie Weber, Waukesha, requested a recipe for Peppercorn Parmesan Salad Dressing, and D.D., Menomonee Falls, asked for the recipe for a chocolate mousse, both served at Wolfendale’s, N63-W23929 Main St., Sussex .
Kurt Schuller, chef and owner, sent the recipes along with a spinach salad on which the dressing can be served. He said, “This salad is perfect with the Peppercorn Parmesan Dressing, but is not currently on Wolfendale’s menu.”
Wolfendale’s Peppercorn Parmesan Dressing
2 cups good-quality mayonnaise
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 tablespoon cup white wine vinegar
1 1/2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1/4 cup very finely diced shallots
1/4 cup sour cream
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon cracked black pepper
3/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 cup whipping cream
1 1/2 teaspoons granulated garlic
1 tablespoon ground black pepper
1/4 cup buttermilk (about)
Combine all ingredients in large stainless steel bowl; refrigerate overnight. If mixture is too thick, add additional buttermilk. Makes about 4 cups dressing.
Wolfendale’s Spinach, Artichoke and Steak Salad
1 bag (1 pound) fresh spinach, stems removed, leaves washed
8 ounces fresh mushrooms, sliced
1 can (13.75 ounces) artichoke hearts, drained and sliced
1 cup Peppercorn Parmesan Salad dressing (see recipe)
12 ounces of your favorite steak (grilled to desired doneness, cut into
strips and held warm)
1 ripe beefsteak tomato, cut into wedges
1 small red onion, cut into rings
Garlic croutons
Combine spinach, mushrooms and artichokes in large bowl; toss with dressing. Divide among 4 plates. Divide warm steak strips over salads. Top with tomato wedges, onion and croutons. Serve immediately. Makes 4 main-dish salads.
Wolfendale’s Chocolate Mousse
1 cup good quality semi-sweet chocolate chips
1/4 cup sugar
1/8 cup Malibu (coconut flavored) rum
1 pint whipping cream (divided)
2 egg whites (see note)
Sweetened real whipped cream for garnish (fresh or from an aerosol can)
Shaved chocolate for garnish
In heavy-bottomed saucepan or double boiler, melt chocolate over low heat. Gradually add sugar and rum; whisk until smooth. Remove from heat; whisk in 2 tablespoons of cream to keep mixture from hardening. Set aside; cool to room temperature. If mixture gets too hot, egg whites will cook. If it gets too cool, chocolate mixture will start to congeal. In metal bowl, beat egg whites until stiff peaks form. In another metal bowl, whip cream until stiff.
Add lukewarm chocolate mixture to egg whites; gently fold in. Fold chocolate/egg white mixture into whipped cream; refrigerate 3 hours.
To serve, pipe or spoon mousse into tall glasses. Garnish with whipping cream and chocolate. Makes 6 to 8 servings.
Notes: When separating eggs, be careful not to get any yolk into egg whites. Even one drop of yolk will interfere with the success of this dessert.
Though the risk of salmonella is smaller from uncooked egg whites than from yolks, the U.S. Department of Agriculture recommends against using them to be absolutely sure, particularly for the very young, the elderly, pregnant women and people with serious illnesses or weakened immune systems. Reconstituted powdered egg whites, available at Cook Specialty Co., 7321 W. Greenfield Ave., West Allis, can be used instead. Caption:Photo DALE GULDAN STAFF PHOTOGRAPHER Recipes for Chocolate Mousse and Spinach, Artichoke and Steak Salad with Peppercorn Parmesan Dressing come from Wolfendale’srestaurant inSussex .