We would appreciate any tips you may have to clean and restore yourtins.
Cleaning Tins
by Mike Reilly
I went through all of the back issues and found the messages thatcontained replies from readers on the subject of cleaning and maintaining your tincollection.
I don’t advocate one cleaning or preservation method overanother. It’s a matter of trial & error in some cases, and some personal preferences -ChipTin.
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From: JMcDGwin
I use the same thing on my tins that I use on my car: TR-3 RESINGLAZE,
an automobile cleaner and polish manufactured in the USA by TR-3Products, a subsidiary of Blue Coral, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio 44105 and Los Angeles,California 90001, or so it says on the can. Follow the instructions on the can.
From: Tinlover
About the cleaning of tins and all ,I have found that just plainEndust-no lemon scent-works wonders for removing the gummy,sticky mess from tape frompricetags,etc.Lighter Fluid will also work if you aren’t afraid to use it but I wouldn’ton an older tin.
From: BFD 2174
In regards to cleaning them–I use Turtle wax both as a cleanerand protection for the tins.. I have not had any problem with using this wax but alwaystry it on a small area on the back of a tin first just to be sure. Water can create aproblem if the tin is not allowed to dry on the inside before closing the lid.
Also as far as sunlight and UV rays. There is a film typematerial that you can have applied to windows or to display cases that protects the tinsfrom the sunlight. A glass company may have this or companies that specialize in that lineof business can be worth a visit. It is not all that expensive and it can save yourinvestment. The cleaning and care of the tins is kind of subjective anyway. There arepeople who say not to use petroleum based wax etc. so it kind of depends on theindividual.
From: RMOSEMAN
When cleaning tins I have found that a good auto wax is the best.I use Mothers California Gold Carnuba Cleaner and Wax, this can be found in most autosupply stores. If the tin is flaking or has heavy crazing I would suggest not cleaning itat all since it could do more harm than good.
The follow question came from a reader:
How does one preserve tins from deterioration? I live in a hot,humid, and muggy area.
A reply from: Cycletruck
I recommend that she keep a piece of fabric or a cotton balldampened with camphorated oil inside each of her tins…this is what tool collectors havedone for years & it works for me.
From: babyjane@mindspring.com
I saw where someone was looking for ideas on how to take care oftheir tins. I saw on FX, how a man who is a collector of lunch boxes, used car wax–notpolish–to keep his tins looking nice and shiny. I tried it on one with a duller finishand I was pleased with the results. I have also removed a few minor dints or dings byfirst warming the tin up in a sink of hot water. This works well if the dint isn’t toodeep. Gently rubbing the inside with a large wooden spoon may help, too. Be sure to padthe outside with a towel or like item. One final tip. Don’t clean tins with 409 orFantastic–or if you do, don’t let it stay on long. I’ve got several tins on my kitchencounter top (they hold dog treats) and over the years they have gotten sprayed byhousehold cleaners. These cleaners, I’ve found, fade and discolor if allowed to remain onthe tin for any length of time. Hope these ideas might help some fellow collectors. Marsha
(Editor’s Note – I would recommend not using hot/warm water onolder tins, pre-1980’s? In some instances the “paint” finish will actually”lift” or dissolve. It would be best to use cold water to clean a tin,especiallythe outside. Also watch how much “elbow grease” you apply. That graphic orlettering could quickly disappear. I’ve used a liquid car wax on some of my tins and thengently polished them. I’ve also applied some to the inside. Be sure that the wax iscompletely dry, inside or out. I don’t know if a liquid or paste is better, a non-abrasivetype the best (less water content in a paste to deal with?). And speaking ofdiscoloration, don’t let your tins sit in a window or in direct sunlight, fading willoccur quite fast.)
Rust Removal
by Mike Reilly
Rust and corrosion are a tin’s enemies. Asa tin collector, it’s your responsibility to preserve the tin for future collectors. Notall people are willing or able to remove rust or stop the advance of corrosion, but youcan take some precautions with your collection.
If you’re game, first tackle any rustspots in the tin’s interior, then it’s lid and bottom. This is to be done only on UNFINISHED surfaces. Take very fine sandpaper, emery cloth, or steel wool moistened withwater and start working in an area that’s not very noticeable. Work a small rust spot orarea, using a LIGHT circular rubbing motion, being careful not to scratch any unrusted orfinished surfaces. Use a dampened soft cloth to wipe away the rust particles or lightlyrinse the area with COOL water (never warm or hot). Then continue working, taking yourtime; rushing can cause accidents (to the tin and to you).
For tough rust, using a coarser grade of abrasive may speed things up initially, but you need to go back and finish off the jobwith the finer grade until you have a smooth surface. Of course you don’t want to rub sohard that you wear the metal thin or create holes.
For lids that are unfinished (notdecorated) you may wish to soak them (if easily removable) in a solution of oxalic acid orspread Naval Jelly on it. It’s recommended to use about a 12% oxalic acid solution.According to what I’ve read, oxalic acid shouldn’t affect finished surfaces, only attackrust, but I would be very careful. Read any directions on these or other productscarefully and always test it’s performance in a small area.
Any time you’re working on a tin, be sureto protect the finished surfaces as much as possible. Wear gloves, cloth or rubber, andeye protection, especially around chemicals. Warning: some chemicals may cause skin, noseor eye irritation. Be sure your work area is ventilated. Some people mask off the finishedsurfaces with adhesive tape or like materials. If you do this, be sure it won’t leave atough sticky residue to clean off; worse yet, that it pulls off ink or paint when youremove it. Avoid touching the decorative finish with your bare skin (leaves dirt and oils)or bumping it against something else (you may want to work on a rubber mat or similarmaterial).
When you’re done with your tin or justrunning out of time, make sure there’s time to adequately dry the tin. Use a hair dryer onlow heat or cool setting to thoroughly dry the inside and seam areas. Sitting the tin onan oven rack, rack extended out of oven, with the oven on very low heat, will also work.Just watch what you’re doing and the affect the heat/drying process is having on the tin’ssurfaces. NEVER let a tin “drip dry.”
After the tin is dry, you may wish toapply a clear (non-yellowing) polish or wax to the new shiny (?) surface. The less waterin the product the better; remember you have to make sure the tin is dry after polishing.We’re still talking about those unfinished areas. This will retard the growth of rust, butlimit your handling because it will mean additional applications much sooner. Try to applythe polish or wax as soon as possible, to reduce the amount of oxidation developing on thenewly cleaned surface.
Cleaning rust from the decorated finish ofyour tins require you to know something about how it was applied and what it consists of.You don’t have to be a chemist, just use some common sense in your cleaning approach.
Before lithography was used on metal tins,the color was often more of an ink than a paint. Today many of these colors easily comeoff with the slightest rubbing or moisture applied. If you’re not sure of theconsequences, don’t do anything. At least experiment first on a small area that won’t bevery noticeable if the finish lifts off or smears. Use a plain soft white cloth to gentlywipe the surface. If the tin’s finish doesn’t change and no color is present on the cloth,then you can try a little water. Always check your progress. You may be able to use agentle liquid paste/wax to help clean light rust off later; first you want to see whathappens to the actual finish.
Most lithographed tins can be easilycleaned of light rust, stains and other marks using a damp soft cloth with cool water.Again, never apply warm or hot water and NEVER soak your tin for any period of time.Follow the same precautions above remembering that too much rubbing pressure can beginremoving paint as well.
For small rust spots or pitting throughthe finish you might try an ordinary ruby stick eraser or one found on a pencil for bettercontrol. The eraser on an ink pen is more abrasive, but it may work on tougher areas.Pitting may never clean up well and if you remove too much (along with the finish), nowwhat do you do?
If you’re somewhat good with an artist’spaint brush, along with a selection of bottled auto touch-up paint, you may be able tohide some of those ugly spots with a dab. The other thing to do is to leave it as it isand apply a coat of wax or polish to hinder more rust development. Try your polish out ina small area again, then gently apply it.
As an honest collector, it is worthtelling any potential buyer that a tin has been restored. Many amateurtouchup/restorationjobs will be easily detected by most buyers. Why risk someone’s wrath or nasty commentswhen they can be avoided.
After you finish working on your tin,store it in a dry area out of any direct sunshine. Then sit back and enjoy the view. Ifyou’ve done a good job of cleaning, you may also know that the tin may have significantlyincreased in value, just because you invested a little of your time in caring for it.
Something else to try orlet me know about – I found an ad about a product called GS-27 Scratch Remover.It’s supposed to blend scratches on your car even remove rust from paint or chrome. Saysit will remove surface scratches on enamel-finish appliances as well. A 5.3 oz tube costs$14.99
If any reader hastried this product, please let me know what results you’ve had on your tins. Looks likeit’s available over the internet through some automotive sites. Thanks, Mike.